Dead last

Last year I entered the New York City Marathon. The race started and immediately I was the last of the runners. It was embarrassing.

The guy who was in front of me, second to last, was making fun of me. He said, “Hey buddy, how does it feel to be last?”

I replied: “You really want to know?”

Then I dropped out of the race.

Interview with Tom Osler

His nickname is "Turtle." But Tom Osler has helped thousands of runners to run faster through the training principles outlined in his three books. Although his first book was published more than 30 years ago, it remains one of the "absolute classic training books of the world" according to Tim Noakes author of "The Lore of Running." "Tom Osler's great contribution was to emphasize the importance of peaking training.

Read more....

Basic XC ski equipment advice

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David McMahon & Lise Meloche [Source: Tri-Rudy newsletter, December 17, 2008] There has been a few questions about XC ski equipment on trirudy so I have cut and pasted the narrative from our Nordic Skiing DVDs. This advice is for a beginner... Essentially all major brands are equal and it comes down to personal preference. Go to a xc ski shop to get fitted by people who know what they are doing. Make sure your boots are comfortable. EQUIPMENT The initial commitment and costs to begin cross-country skiing are modest whereas benefits are unparalleled. The skis in most people’s garages predate 1970's technology. Then, skis were made of wood, boots were low cut leather, the poles were made of bamboo and bindings resembled metal rat traps. The reality is that cross country skiing has experienced a quiet revolution. It has come a long way from wooden skis, granola, wool knickers. Today’s equipment rivals the stability of some Alpine gear with significantly better glide and prices. Boots are a good place to start outfitting. Choose a ski boot with as much care as you would a winter walking boot. A high-cut style which extends above the ankles is recommended. Ensure that they are comfortable and supportive. Avoid buying boots that are tight. Your toes should not touch the end or else you will run the risk of frost bite. An important footnote is that the boot must fit one of the standard binding systems. Salomon’s Nordic System (SNS) or Pilot and the New Nordic Norm (NNN) binding systems have replaced the antiquated three pin bindings. Note that there are back country versions of these systems. Modern binding systems offer positive connection to the ski and great control and stability. Because they are mechanically hinged, you won’t get the crease across the top of the boot as was the case years ago. Wood has been replaced by lightweight synthetics which performs better in the snow. Expect to pay between $80 and $200 for a new entry level ski. Top xc racing skis run about $600 a pair. If you are a stronger athlete and are going to train seriously then buy higher quality. Modern fiberglass skis are faster and lighter than their wooden predecessors and come in a variety of shapes and sizes designed to take you over any terrain or conditions. The first decision point in ski selection is to examine your outing preferences. Race skis are lighter and narrower than touring models. If you plan to be skiing mostly off trail, then wider skis with less camber will provide the stability and buoyancy needed for deep unpacked snow. You can go from moderate light back country touring models, to full blown shaped mountaineering or telemark skis with medal edges. If you are planning on using groomed trails then it becomes a question of your predominate style. Whether that be classic, skating or a combination of the two. If all these choices make your head spin, try a combination light touring ski within your budget. Most triathletes will prefer ski skating for cross-training initially. Next, determine size. Most men ski on 190 205cm skis whereas women use 180 195cm. A shorter ski is generally easier to control but at the expense of speed. The best factor used to determine proper ski size is weight. A ski store will be able to measure the degree to which you compress the camber of the ski and ascertain which pair is best for you. The bases are made out of polyethylene (generally referred to as P Tex). Sintered P Tex bases (compressed by heat and pressure) hold wax better and are tougher than extruded (pressure molded) bases - it can be a strictly matter of cost/speed for the consumer. Entry level classic touring skis come in wax less or waxable varieties. Wax less skis have fish angled scales on the running area underneath so that they provide momentary grip when the skier pushes on the snow. Waxable skis perform the same function but are much faster in the end. Although, waxless racing skis have been used at the World Cup in difficult conditions. In ottawa, choose waxable skis. Poles are the last major piece of equipment and one which offers the greatest range of prices from $10 to $800. Normally, poles are made out of either carbon fibre, fibre glass or aluminum. What you are paying for is less weight and increased stiffness. Choose poles of shoulder height for classic, or chin to nose height for skating. The baskets for back country skiing are wider than those used on groomed trails. CHILDREN Poor quality equipment can lead to a negative experience for a child that will turn them off the sport. To save money and still get good equipment, look for stores with a trade up program for kids, or check out the ski swops at local clubs. The first ski equipment for a child 3-5 years of age would include a pair of no wax skis, although if there is waxing experience in the family a waxable pair can give better performance. Children should start with classic length poles that reach under the arm. Skiing without poles sometimes can be a useful way to help develop the child's balance. Skis should be the same height as the child. Select a binding that is easy to operate and not prone to release. Some entry level bindings for kids strap over existing winter boots. A child is ready for waxable classic skis at 7 years old. Poles are still classic length. The straps need to be adjustable. Skating is often introduced at 7 to 9 years of age and the classic skis can be used when grip wax is removed and glide wax applied. The child should also have a second set of longer skating poles of about shoulder to chin height. The wide 3 pin binding configurations make proper skating technique difficult to achieve. Separate skating and classic skis should be considered when the children over 12 who ski regularly. At this age, skate skis should be 4 cm taller than then the child and classic skis should reach just below the wrist of the skier’s outstretched arm. Each ski should have a camber appropriate for the child’s weight. Regular NNN or SNS ski bindings are recommended. WHAT TO WEAR Clothing should be functional and comfortable. Or in other words; address survival before investing in style. So woolen knickers and long colourful socks are best left in the retro closet. Jeans are definitely out! Cross country skiing follows the same principles as other outdoor exercise with the added extremes in temperature or wind chill experienced in climbing and descending. Start with long underwear made from synthetic fabrics like polypropylene that wick moisture away from the skin. Buy some wind proof briefs and save in a lot of grief. The key is to dress in layers for warmth and to regulate temperature more easily. A middle layer of medium thickness is recommended for the upper body. Choose wool or synthetic fabrics again. Avoid cotton. The outer layer should offer resistance to wind and snow and allow body moisture to escape. Lycra or Gortex are good choices here. A vest or warm-up suit is a good extra layer if required. Your choice of warm mitts or gloves offer better feel and control of the poles. Choose your gloves (or mitts) large and loose for better heat retention. A good addition is to include thin glove inserts. Wear a hat because most of your heat escapes out of the top of your head. A thin balaclava underneath the toque will protect your face and ears from the wind. Sunglasses (with UVA and UVB protection) are important to not only thwart snow blindness but keep the eyes from watering in the cold wind... and to look cool. PREPARATION AND WAX For classic skiing, a special paraffin based grip wax is applied underneath the ski kick zone (generally the middle third of the ski) and momentarily bonds with the snow crystals when the skier compresses the ski for grip. A thin layer of grip wax is first chalked on to the ski and then corked. Several layers are applied. Waxing for skating is different than for classic technique. No grip wax is required for skating. A special glide wax is applied on the entire ski base by first melting it on with a warm iron and scraping off the excess. Ski tuning and the hot wax is much of an arcane art as it is science. It is best to watch the shop do this intially, for those attempting this for the first time. The tips and tales of classic skis can be hot glide waxed like skating skis for better glide. Choice of wax is best kept simple. Every wax is labeled for the appropriate temperature and humidity. Each is colour roughly coded from cold green to warmer red. Use as recommended on the package. Use only glide wax on skating skis and conversely grip wax only underneath the middle third of your classic skis. STUDY AND PRACTICE Now that you have equipment, buy a book, watch a DVD and take a lesson. Happy Trails David McMahon & Lise Meloche gravity@xczone.com www.xczone.com xczone.tv Clean Oxygen Fed Sport Cinematography www.naturalfitnesslab.com Natural Fitness Lab

Basic XC ski equipment advice

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David McMahon & Lise Meloche (General Comments) [Source: Tri-Rudy newsletter, December 17, 2008] There has been a few questions about XC ski equipment on trirudy so I have cut and pasted the narrative from our Nordic Skiing DVDs. This advice is for a beginner... Essentially all major brands are equal and it comes down to personal preference. Go to a xc ski shop to get fitted by people who know what they are doing. Make sure your boots are comfortable. EQUIPMENT The initial commitment and costs to begin cross-country skiing are modest whereas benefits are unparalleled. The skis in most people’s garages predate 1970's technology. Then, skis were made of wood, boots were low cut leather, the poles were made of bamboo and bindings resembled metal rat traps. The reality is that cross country skiing has experienced a quiet revolution. It has come a long way from wooden skis, granola, wool knickers. Today’s equipment rivals the stability of some Alpine gear with significantly better glide and prices. Boots are a good place to start outfitting. Choose a ski boot with as much care as you would a winter walking boot. A high-cut style which extends above the ankles is recommended. Ensure that they are comfortable and supportive. Avoid buying boots that are tight. Your toes should not touch the end or else you will run the risk of frost bite. An important footnote is that the boot must fit one of the standard binding systems. Salomon’s Nordic System (SNS) or Pilot and the New Nordic Norm (NNN) binding systems have replaced the antiquated three pin bindings. Note that there are back country versions of these systems. Modern binding systems offer positive connection to the ski and great control and stability. Because they are mechanically hinged, you won’t get the crease across the top of the boot as was the case years ago. Wood has been replaced by lightweight synthetics which performs better in the snow. Expect to pay between $80 and $200 for a new entry level ski. Top xc racing skis run about $600 a pair. If you are a stronger athlete and are going to train seriously then buy higher quality. Modern fiberglass skis are faster and lighter than their wooden predecessors and come in a variety of shapes and sizes designed to take you over any terrain or conditions. The first decision point in ski selection is to examine your outing preferences. Race skis are lighter and narrower than touring models. If you plan to be skiing mostly off trail, then wider skis with less camber will provide the stability and buoyancy needed for deep unpacked snow. You can go from moderate light back country touring models, to full blown shaped mountaineering or telemark skis with medal edges. If you are planning on using groomed trails then it becomes a question of your predominate style. Whether that be classic, skating or a combination of the two. If all these choices make your head spin, try a combination light touring ski within your budget. Most triathletes will prefer ski skating for cross-training initially. Next, determine size. Most men ski on 190 205cm skis whereas women use 180 195cm. A shorter ski is generally easier to control but at the expense of speed. The best factor used to determine proper ski size is weight. A ski store will be able to measure the degree to which you compress the camber of the ski and ascertain which pair is best for you. The bases are made out of polyethylene (generally referred to as P Tex). Sintered P Tex bases (compressed by heat and pressure) hold wax better and are tougher than extruded (pressure molded) bases - it can be a strictly matter of cost/speed for the consumer. Entry level classic touring skis come in wax less or waxable varieties. Wax less skis have fish angled scales on the running area underneath so that they provide momentary grip when the skier pushes on the snow. Waxable skis perform the same function but are much faster in the end. Although, waxless racing skis have been used at the World Cup in difficult conditions. In ottawa, choose waxable skis. Poles are the last major piece of equipment and one which offers the greatest range of prices from $10 to $800. Normally, poles are made out of either carbon fibre, fibre glass or aluminum. What you are paying for is less weight and increased stiffness. Choose poles of shoulder height for classic, or chin to nose height for skating. The baskets for back country skiing are wider than those used on groomed trails. CHILDREN Poor quality equipment can lead to a negative experience for a child that will turn them off the sport. To save money and still get good equipment, look for stores with a trade up program for kids, or check out the ski swops at local clubs. The first ski equipment for a child 3-5 years of age would include a pair of no wax skis, although if there is waxing experience in the family a waxable pair can give better performance. Children should start with classic length poles that reach under the arm. Skiing without poles sometimes can be a useful way to help develop the child's balance. Skis should be the same height as the child. Select a binding that is easy to operate and not prone to release. Some entry level bindings for kids strap over existing winter boots. A child is ready for waxable classic skis at 7 years old. Poles are still classic length. The straps need to be adjustable. Skating is often introduced at 7 to 9 years of age and the classic skis can be used when grip wax is removed and glide wax applied. The child should also have a second set of longer skating poles of about shoulder to chin height. The wide 3 pin binding configurations make proper skating technique difficult to achieve. Separate skating and classic skis should be considered when the children over 12 who ski regularly. At this age, skate skis should be 4 cm taller than then the child and classic skis should reach just below the wrist of the skier’s outstretched arm. Each ski should have a camber appropriate for the child’s weight. Regular NNN or SNS ski bindings are recommended. WHAT TO WEAR Clothing should be functional and comfortable. Or in other words; address survival before investing in style. So woolen knickers and long colourful socks are best left in the retro closet. Jeans are definitely out! Cross country skiing follows the same principles as other outdoor exercise with the added extremes in temperature or wind chill experienced in climbing and descending. Start with long underwear made from synthetic fabrics like polypropylene that wick moisture away from the skin. Buy some wind proof briefs and save in a lot of grief. The key is to dress in layers for warmth and to regulate temperature more easily. A middle layer of medium thickness is recommended for the upper body. Choose wool or synthetic fabrics again. Avoid cotton. The outer layer should offer resistance to wind and snow and allow body moisture to escape. Lycra or Gortex are good choices here. A vest or warm-up suit is a good extra layer if required. Your choice of warm mitts or gloves offer better feel and control of the poles. Choose your gloves (or mitts) large and loose for better heat retention. A good addition is to include thin glove inserts. Wear a hat because most of your heat escapes out of the top of your head. A thin balaclava underneath the toque will protect your face and ears from the wind. Sunglasses (with UVA and UVB protection) are important to not only thwart snow blindness but keep the eyes from watering in the cold wind... and to look cool. PREPARATION AND WAX For classic skiing, a special paraffin based grip wax is applied underneath the ski kick zone (generally the middle third of the ski) and momentarily bonds with the snow crystals when the skier compresses the ski for grip. A thin layer of grip wax is first chalked on to the ski and then corked. Several layers are applied. Waxing for skating is different than for classic technique. No grip wax is required for skating. A special glide wax is applied on the entire ski base by first melting it on with a warm iron and scraping off the excess. Ski tuning and the hot wax is much of an arcane art as it is science. It is best to watch the shop do this intially, for those attempting this for the first time. The tips and tales of classic skis can be hot glide waxed like skating skis for better glide. Choice of wax is best kept simple. Every wax is labeled for the appropriate temperature and humidity. Each is colour roughly coded from cold green to warmer red. Use as recommended on the package. Use only glide wax on skating skis and conversely grip wax only underneath the middle third of your classic skis. STUDY AND PRACTICE Now that you have equipment, buy a book, watch a DVD and take a lesson. Happy Trails David McMahon & Lise Meloche gravity@xczone.com www.xczone.com xczone.tv Clean Oxygen Fed Sport Cinematography www.naturalfitnesslab.com Natural Fitness Lab

Triathlon Turn Buoys

by Duane Dobko [Source: East Coast Cycos newsletter in Tri-Rudy newsletter, December 2, 2008]

Why are turn buoys so important in open water triathlon swimming? After all, they are few and far between (there are usually only 2 turns in an entire race). The logic would suggest that they are inconsequential, which couldn't be further from the truth. It is not the time to go around a turn buoy that makes them so important. Instead, they are critical because they create an "accordion effect" which can split a whole race apart and separate the winners from the contenders.

A turn buoy in a triathlon swim is analogous to a construction zone on a highway. It is pure gridlock upstream as the number of lanes and speed limits are reduced. At the construction site itself the cars move in slow, uniform procession. Once through, all of the sudden there is a huge path of open road in front. All those cars that were bumper to bumper ahead are now on the horizon. This model happens in identical fashion in a triathlon race at every turn buoy. The only difference is that when you are swimming, you cannot see around you enough for it to be obvious.

As you are turning around the buoy, you must reduce your speed to zero. This is because you are turning, and no longer trying to move forward. This creates problems for the swimmer immediately behind you. That person wants to keep swimming forward, but cannot because you are in their way and traveling at zero speed. This forces them to slow down, which forces the person behind them to slow down, and so on. When you complete the turn and start moving forward again, the person immediately behind you is in the process of turning and traveling at zero speed. Thus, when they complete the turn there is a gap equal to the distance you swam while they were turning. The next person in line also has the same gap, and so on.

So, why does this matter? After all, the gap between you and your competitor behind you after a turn is not much. The distance is usually 5 feet. But 5 feet is enough to fall out of a draft zone in the water. This means that the person behind you, who was once able to keep up to you with little effort, now has to work much harder to maintain the same speed. This is what makes turn buoys so important. The person behind you has two bad choices. One, they can sprint as fast as they can to catch up to you and draft again, which risks cramping and fatigue. Or two, they are forced to swim without your draft, which causes them work much harder and slower and get tired more quickly.

Thus, the importance of the turn buoy is not the raw time to turn. Instead, turns affect the entire dynamic of the race and determine who wins and who gets left behind. If you know how to turn well and know what to expect, you can make significant improvements in your race times without any improvement to your swimming ability. The pros are aware of this importance. I encourage any triathlete who gets to watch a pro race observe them closely swimming around turns.

Here is what the professional triathlete is doing while leading the swim. They take the last 100 yards or so into a turn slowly. This forces everyone behind to bunch together. Thus, when they get to the turn and reduce their speed to zero, the slowing effect for everyone else is greater. It also allows them to rest and prepare for the turn itself. They get around the turn as fast as possible and then just hammer with everything they have after the turn and for the next 10-20 yards. We are talking a flat out 110% effort with the pull and kick. This maximizes the gap and forces the other competitors to sprint that much harder and longer to catch up. If the leader can sprint well, they can leave the field in the dust, even if their competitors are better distance swimmers.

Here is what happens next. Almost every time the last couple of swimmers in the pack get dropped. They are forced to slow down way too long and lose too much ground to catch up again. As a result, they are stuck breaking their own water for the rest of the race. The swimmers in the middle of the pack form their own smaller group, and a few leaders emerge at the front; sometimes swimming alone, other times drafting in a line. This dynamic is usually most significant at the first turn as the field is closer together at this point. However, I have observed races where the leader intentionally keeps the field together on the first turn, only to blow them all away on the final turn knowing that the fatigue is greater which improves their chance to break away.

The dynamics of turn buoys are important to more than the pros. For the weekend warriors, the last 25 yards into a turn buoy can be a jumbled mess of people with arms and legs flying around all over the place and going nowhere. It is often as violent before a turn buoy as it is just after the start of the whole race. It is important to pick the right strategy. Swim into the crowd at this point and you will get stuck for certain.

Swim to the inside of the buoy and you have a high risk of getting stuck, but with potential to gain on the entire field if you don't get stuck. Swim to the outside of the field and you go around the turn much slower, but have very little risk of getting caught in the pack. "Inside" means that you are hugging the buoy as close as possible during the turn. "Outside" means that you are swimming the long way around all of the other swimmers bunched around the buoy. There is no right answer as every situation is different. However, you must be aware of the process in order to make the right choices consistently.

For most people (weekend warriors and pros alike), I recommend to take a crowded first turn buoy to the outside of the field, even though it is longer distance. The reason is that it carries the least risk. If there isn't a large crowd, by all means take the inside and get around it as fast as possible. The worst thing that can happen early on in a triathlon swim is inhaling water or taking a black eye. Swallow some water right away means you have over half of the race left to go and have lost your concentration. It is not a good time to take chances. A better option for taking the inside is the last buoy. At this point, the field is spaced further apart and so there are less flying arms and legs to hit you. Also, if the worst does happen, you don't have so much of the race left to swim and don't lose as much time or concentration.

Turn buoys make open-water swimming unique from pool swimming. Pool swimmers race at a relatively uniform speed and effort. In a triathlon swim, you need to swim at your best-mile pace for most of the time, but also need to be able to sprint at your best-50 on demand. It is the athlete with the best combination of sprint and endurance swimming abilities that usually prevails in a triathlon swim. If it were not for the turns, sprinting ability would matter much less.

The best way to prepare for turns in triathlon swimming is to work on sprinting in practice. You can gain the same amount of race time working on your sprint ability as you can by working on your endurance. If you haven't worked on sprinting in the past but have worked a lot on endurance, you stand to gain a significant amount of time by learning how to sprint.

In summary, this article has covered why turn buoys are important in an open water triathlon swim. The change of direction in a turn creates an accordion effect which forces you and your competitors to speed up and slow down in the water. If you understand this effect and have trained properly, you can make big improvements in your overall race times.