Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Basic XC ski equipment advice

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David McMahon & Lise Meloche (General Comments)

[Source: Tri-Rudy newsletter, December 17, 2008]

There has been a few questions about XC ski equipment on trirudy so I have cut and pasted the narrative from our Nordic Skiing DVDs. This advice is for a beginner...

Essentially all major brands are equal and it comes down to personal preference. Go to a xc ski shop to get fitted by people who know what they are doing. Make sure your boots are comfortable.

EQUIPMENT

The initial commitment and costs to begin cross-country skiing are modest whereas benefits are unparalleled.

The skis in most people’s garages predate 1970's technology. Then, skis were made of wood, boots were low cut leather, the poles were made of bamboo and bindings resembled metal rat traps.

The reality is that cross country skiing has experienced a quiet revolution. It has come a long way from wooden skis, granola, wool knickers. Today’s equipment rivals the stability of some Alpine gear with significantly better glide and prices.

Boots are a good place to start outfitting. Choose a ski boot with as much care as you would a winter walking boot. A high-cut style which extends above the ankles is recommended. Ensure that they are comfortable and supportive. Avoid buying boots that are tight. Your toes should not touch the end or else you will run the risk of frost bite. An important footnote is that the boot must fit one of the standard binding systems.

Salomon’s Nordic System (SNS) or Pilot and the New Nordic Norm (NNN) binding systems have replaced the antiquated three pin bindings. Note that there are back country versions of these systems. Modern binding systems offer positive connection to the ski and great control and stability. Because they are mechanically hinged, you won’t get the crease across the top of the boot as was the case years ago.

Wood has been replaced by lightweight synthetics which performs better in the snow. Expect to pay between $80 and $200 for a new entry level ski. Top xc racing skis run about $600 a pair. If you are a stronger athlete and are going to train seriously then buy higher quality.

Modern fiberglass skis are faster and lighter than their wooden predecessors and come in a variety of shapes and sizes designed to take you over any terrain or conditions.

The first decision point in ski selection is to examine your outing preferences. Race skis are lighter and narrower than touring models. If you plan to be skiing mostly off trail, then wider skis with less camber will provide the stability and buoyancy needed for deep unpacked snow. You can go from moderate light back country touring models, to full blown shaped mountaineering or telemark skis with medal edges.

If you are planning on using groomed trails then it becomes a question of your predominate style. Whether that be classic, skating or a combination of the two. If all these choices make your head spin, try a combination light touring ski within your budget.

Most triathletes will prefer ski skating for cross-training initially.

Next, determine size. Most men ski on 190 205cm skis whereas women use 180 195cm. A shorter ski is generally easier to control but at the expense of speed. The best factor used to determine proper ski size is weight. A ski store will be able to measure the degree to which you compress the camber of the ski and ascertain which pair is best for you.

The bases are made out of polyethylene (generally referred to as P Tex). Sintered P Tex bases (compressed by heat and pressure) hold wax better and are tougher than extruded (pressure molded) bases - it can be a strictly matter of cost/speed for the consumer.

Entry level classic touring skis come in wax less or waxable varieties. Wax less skis have fish angled scales on the running area underneath so that they provide momentary grip when the skier pushes on the snow. Waxable skis perform the same function but are much faster in the end. Although, waxless racing skis have been used at the World Cup in difficult conditions.

In ottawa, choose waxable skis.

Poles are the last major piece of equipment and one which offers the greatest range of prices from $10 to $800. Normally, poles are made out of either carbon fibre, fibre glass or aluminum. What you are paying for is less weight and increased stiffness. Choose poles of shoulder height for classic, or chin to nose height for skating. The baskets for back country skiing are wider than those used on groomed trails.


CHILDREN

Poor quality equipment can lead to a negative experience for a child that will turn them off the sport. To save money and still get good equipment, look for stores with a trade up program for kids, or check out the ski swops at local clubs.

The first ski equipment for a child 3-5 years of age would include a pair of no wax skis, although if there is waxing experience in the family a waxable pair can give better performance. Children should start with classic length poles that reach under the arm. Skiing without poles sometimes can be a useful way to help develop the child's balance. Skis should be the same height as the child. Select a binding that is easy to operate and not prone to release. Some entry level bindings for kids strap over existing winter boots.

A child is ready for waxable classic skis at 7 years old. Poles are still classic length. The straps need to be adjustable.

Skating is often introduced at 7 to 9 years of age and the classic skis can be used when grip wax is removed and glide wax applied. The child should also have a second set of longer skating poles of about shoulder to chin height. The wide 3 pin binding configurations make proper skating technique difficult to achieve.

Separate skating and classic skis should be considered when the children over 12 who ski regularly. At this age, skate skis should be 4 cm taller than then the child and classic skis should reach just below the wrist of the skier’s outstretched arm. Each ski should have a camber appropriate for the child’s weight. Regular NNN or SNS ski bindings are recommended.


WHAT TO WEAR

Clothing should be functional and comfortable. Or in other words; address survival before investing in style. So woolen knickers and long colourful socks are best left in the retro closet. Jeans are definitely out!

Cross country skiing follows the same principles as other outdoor exercise with the added extremes in temperature or wind chill experienced in climbing and descending. Start with long underwear made from synthetic fabrics like polypropylene that wick moisture away from the skin. Buy some wind proof briefs and save in a lot of grief.

The key is to dress in layers for warmth and to regulate temperature more easily. A middle layer of medium thickness is recommended for the upper body. Choose wool or synthetic fabrics again. Avoid cotton. The outer layer should offer resistance to wind and snow and allow body moisture to escape. Lycra or Gortex are good choices here. A vest or warm-up suit is a good extra layer if required.

Your choice of warm mitts or gloves offer better feel and control of the poles. Choose your gloves (or mitts) large and loose for better heat retention. A good addition is to include thin glove inserts. Wear a hat because most of your heat escapes out of the top of your head. A thin balaclava underneath the toque will protect your face and ears from the wind. Sunglasses (with UVA and UVB protection) are important to not only thwart snow blindness but keep the eyes from watering in the cold wind... and to look cool.


PREPARATION AND WAX

For classic skiing, a special paraffin based grip wax is applied underneath the ski kick zone (generally the middle third of the ski) and momentarily bonds with the snow crystals when the skier compresses the ski for grip.

A thin layer of grip wax is first chalked on to the ski and then corked. Several layers are applied.

Waxing for skating is different than for classic technique. No grip wax is required for skating. A special glide wax is applied on the entire ski base by first melting it on with a warm iron and scraping off the excess. Ski tuning and the hot wax is much of an arcane art as it is science. It is best to watch the shop do this intially, for those attempting this for the first time. The tips and tales of classic skis can be hot glide waxed like skating skis for better glide. Choice of wax is best kept simple. Every wax is labeled for the appropriate temperature and humidity. Each is colour roughly coded from cold green to warmer red. Use as recommended on the package. Use only glide wax on skating skis and conversely grip wax only underneath the middle third of your classic skis.

STUDY AND PRACTICE

Now that you have equipment, buy a book, watch a DVD and take a lesson.

Happy Trails

David McMahon & Lise Meloche
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